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Papsura Peak - The Peak of Evil

Papsura Peak – The Peak of Evil

Climbing

Papsura Peak stands as the third-highest mountain in the district of Himachal Pradesh – Kulu, Lahul & Spiti divide, a region of unparalleled beauty and formidable peaks. Situated at the convergence of the Pir Panjal range and the Great Himalayan Divide, Papsura reigns as a majestic entity, its presence felt near the point where these two mighty ranges diverge.

What adds an intriguing dimension to Papsura’s allure is the neighboring twin peaks that dominate the landscape, both soaring above 21,000 feet. 

Revered in Lahul as the “Peaks of Good and Evil,” these sibling summits, namely Dharmsura and Papsura, are said to mirror the ebb and flow of virtue and malevolence in the world. As per local folklore, the heights of these peaks vary, influenced by the prevailing forces of Good or Evil.

Sketch Map by Robert Pettigrew

Malana & Tosh Glacier Papsura peak
Image: Himalayan Journal Vol 28 – 1968

Papsura, the embodiment of the “Evil” peak, stands significantly taller than its counterpart, Dharmsura, also known as the “Peaks of Good” or “White Sail.” While Dharmsura has witnessed two successful ascents, the spotlight shifts to the commanding presence of Papsura, beckoning adventurers and mountaineers to test their mettle against its challenging slopes.

The allure of Papsura transcends its physical grandeur; it encapsulates a narrative steeped in local mythology, where the peaks themselves are believed to hold a delicate balance between cosmic forces. As mountaineers endeavor to conquer Papsura, they embark on a journey not only through rugged terrain but also through a tale woven into the fabric of the Himachal Himalaya.

Papsura, with its towering presence and rich cultural resonance, beckons those seeking a physical challenge and an immersion into the spiritual and mythical tapestry of the Himalayan landscape. In the shadows of this colossal peak, adventurers find themselves drawn into a narrative where the ascent becomes more than a conquest of altitude; it becomes a communion with the elemental forces that shape this majestic realm.

Papsura Peak Details

  • Category: Peak Ascent
  • Location: Himachal Pradesh, India
  • Altitude: 6451 meters
  • Grade: Demanding
  • Duration: 22 Days

Papsura Peak Route Details

  • Days 1-2: Manali
  • Day 3: Drive to Tosh & Trek Buddha Van
  • Day 4: Buddha Van to Saram Thatch
  • Day 5: Saram Thatch to Samsi Thach
  • Day 6: Samsi Thach to Kuta Thalim – Base Camp
  • Days 7-8: Establish Base Camp, Preparation + Acclimatization
  • Days 9-10: Load Ferry to C1 & Back
  • Day 11: Shift to C1
  • Days 12-13: C1 to C3 (Summit Camp)
  • Days 14-16: Route Opening Days
  • Days 17-18: Summit Days
  • Days 19-20: Descent and Rest
  • Days 21-22: Return to Civilization

Cost: Contact Us

Including and Excluding

  • Includes: Professional guide, Permits, 2 people shared tent accommodation, all meals from day-1 lunch to day-22 lunch, drive from Manali to trek start point and back to Manali, safety equipment with first aid kit, other technical equipment, and all group climbing gear like ropes, anchors, slings, etc. 
  • Excludes: travel to and from Manali, sleeping bag, an individual climbing kit which would be hired climbing bootsice-axescrampons and gaiters, personal clothing items, phone calls, insurance, meals while driving, camera fee, cost incurred as a result of unanticipated situations like as terrible weather, landslides, road conditions, or any other factors beyond our control.
  • Optional: On-request transportation to and from Manali, Extra cost for potter/mule for a day pack.

Papsura Peak Itinerary

Days 1-2: Manali

Embark on your journey from the picturesque town of Manali. Take these initial days to acclimatize and prepare mentally and physically for the challenging ascent ahead.

Day 3: Drive to Tosh & Trek Buddha Van

Drive from Manali to Tosh village and begin the trek with a scenic beauty to Buddha Van, setting the stage for the trek ahead.

Day 4: Buddha Van to Saram Thatch

As you trek through breathtaking landscapes, make your way from Buddha Van to Saram Thatch, gradually gaining altitude.

Day 5: Saram Thatch to Samsi Thach

Continue the ascent, passing through Samsi Thach, immersing yourself in the mesmerizing beauty of the Himalayan terrain.

Day 6: Samsi Thach to Kuta Thach – Base Camp

Arrive at the Base Camp located at Kuta Thalim, the staging ground for the challenging days that lie ahead.

Days 7-8: Establish Base Camp, Preparation + Acclimatization

Take these days to establish the Base Camp, undertake preparations, and acclimatize to the high-altitude environment.

Days 9-10: Load Ferry to C1 & Back

Engage in the meticulous process of ferrying supplies to Camp 1 and back, ensuring everything is in place for the upcoming ascent.

Day 11: Shift to C1

Transition to Camp 1, setting the stage for the more technical phases of the climb.

Days 12-13: C1 to C3 (Summit Camp)

Navigate through the glacier-covered terrain, going from Camp 1 to Camp 3, the Summit Camp.

Days 14-16: Route Opening Days

Dedicate these days to opening and securing the ascent route, a crucial step towards a successful summit bid.

Days 17-18: Summit Days

The pinnacle of the adventure! Summit Papsura Peak, conquering the challenges that make it the “Peak of Evil.”

Days 19-20: Descent and Rest

Descend from the summit camp to either Base Camp or Camp 1, followed by a well-deserved rest day.

Days 21-22: Return to Civilization

Embark on the descent from Saram Thatch to Toshi and drive back to Manali, completing an epic 22-day journey of conquering Papsura Peak.

This meticulously planned itinerary ensures a safe and thrilling experience, combining acclimatization, technical skill development, and the ultimate triumph of reaching the summit of Papsura.

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